- Guided Hillwalking Across the Scottish Highlands

Full Winter in the Fannaichs

by JohnKing 0 Comments

On Sunday I was on the Munro, An Coileachan, the eastern-most of the Fannaichs range in the northwest Highlands. It was such a contrast to the same time last year as shown in the photo below. This photo shows the view from Am Faochagach looking southwest to the Fannaichs on the 7th January 2017. It was comfortably above freezing at 900m and the hills were almost devoid of snow.

The Fannaichs

Fannaichs in January 2017 – not much snow!

Fast forward to the 7th of January 2018. Full-on winter conditions prevailed in the hills with the temperature hovering around -7C at the road when I started walking. The surface of Loch Glascarnoch, a large reservoir nearby, was almost entirely frozen over.

Loch Glascarnoch

Looking east along a frozen Loch Glascarnoch at dawn to Ben Wyvis and Little Wyvis

I followed the river southwards towards the hills taking advantage of the frozen bogs making for easier walking than is usually the case. The conditions were glorious with clear skies, light winds and the moon still visible in the sky. The weather stayed good for the day although the southwesterly wind did pick up a bit in the afternoon with a blanket of high level cloud cover filling in. The summits remained clear though and it was definitely one of the best days of winter weather we’ve had recently.

I made good progress on my walk-in until I started to climb above the 400m mark. Here a breakable icy crust interspersed with deep drifts amongst peat hags made walking difficult and tiring. I don’t think there can really be an easy way to travel in those snow conditions. I stumbled along, eventually reaching the col between the minor top of Meallan Buidhe and An Coileachan. It was a relief to see more scoured slopes above me. After a quick break I plodded on and reached the summit at 1230. This was perfect timing for a lunch break and with amazing views in all directions! I found a sheltered spot to take in the view and admire the amazing rime formations that had built up on the summit rocks.

Summit view from An Coileachan

The view south from An Coileachan to the Strathfarrar and Cannich hills

I have my Winter Mountain Leader assessment before the end of the month and so the temptation to do further Munros after lunch was ignored. I headed off west and found a suitable area of snow to practice some of the skills I’ll need to demonstrate. An hour of digging in snow ensued! Although the digging is hard work its a fun way to spend the time and also gave me a chance to look at the snowpack in a bit more detail. There was certainly plenty of windslab around.

Once I was satisfied I had practied all that I wanted to, and with time marching on I decided to head back down. I broadly followed my route of ascent with a few detours to try and find easier walking conditions. I was moderately successful but was still glad to reach the firmer lower slopes once more. As I walked back the views north to the Beinn Dearg group dominated the view, giving me some inspiration for future adventures. Let’s hope the snow hangs around for a while yet!

Beinn Dearg Group in winter

The view northwest to the Beinn Dearg Range beyond Loch Gorm

If this is an area that you would like to explore, take a look at my forthcoming trip on the 9th/10th June.



Central Sutherland Crater Walk goes live

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Ben More Assynt from the Crater Route

Ben More Assynt from the Central Sutherland Crater Walk and now viewable through Google Street View

In the past few weeks the imagery that I gathered using a Google Trekker backpack in February/March 2017 has gone live on Google Street View. The experience of walking the route and capturing the pictures was a real adventure but seeing the final images is very exciting and makes the effort of carrying a 22kg load around central Sutherland all the more worthwhile! For more details about the Central Sutherland Crater Walk and how to access the imagery for yourself, see the press release below…

Explore the Deep Time landscape of Sutherland on Google Street View

A route mapped by mountain guide John King (King Mountaineering) that circumnavigates a meteorite impact crater made 1.2 billion years ago is now live on Google Street View. Take a digital journey and explore the Deep Time landscape of central Sutherland from anywhere in the world.

1.2 billion years ago, a meteorite hit the earth, creating an impact crater with the village of Lairg in the Northern Highlands of Scotland at its centre. Approximately 200 km in circumference, it ranks as one of the largest known impacts on Earth, and is the first to be discovered in the UK. Now almost hidden from view by millenia of geological change and transformation, its discovery in 2015 was the result of a decade of observation and research that began with a thin section of rock under a microscope.

Inspired by this deep time event where the astronomical and the geological intersect, mountain guide John King mapped a route that traces the circumference of the meteorite crater. Extending from the vast peatland expanse of the Flow Country in the North, to the Dornoch Firth in the south, and from the rolling hills of East Sutherland to the rocky edge of Assynt in the west, the crater becomes a feature by which to explore the varied landscapes, land-uses, geology and wildlife that exist in northern Scotland today.

Working in collaboration with Timespan, a cultural organisation in Helmsdale, Sutherland, he then walked the route carrying a Google Trekker backpack in Spring 2017. Google’s Trekker backpack is four feet high, weighs 22 kilograms and is fitted with a 15-lens camera that takes 360-degree pictures every 2.5 seconds. The technology enables walking routes to be captured and digitised in the same way Google Street View enables users to see 360-degree images of streets and roads.

This imagery is now online, offering an opportunity to explore the route digitally. To view, people should visit www.bit.ly/CraterRoute. It is also hoped that it might encourage those who can to follow the route, or sections of it, on foot and there are plans to launch a guidebook for the route in 2018.

As John King says:

“Walking the crater route was a great adventure. It takes you through a vast area of remote countryside with a constantly changing assortment of wildlife and landscapes. There are woodlands where you can see red squirrels and pine martens, then moorland and mountains with red deer, ptarmigan and golden eagle, and rivers and lochs famous for their Atlantic salmon. As you travel, you transition from the more populated and agricultural lands of Easter Ross into the wildest parts of North-West Sutherland with a population density of only 2 people per km2. The walk also provided a great opportunity to explore the history of the area, right back to its geological roots, and try to imagine how the landscape has changed over millenia.”

The project is a collaboration between John King and Timespan, and forms part of the latter’s Deep Time programme, a year-long investigation into distant pasts and equally distant futures. Through varied projects, exhibitions, and events, the programme is revisiting the rich geological landscape of the North Highland region, exploring the vast peatland expanse of the Flow Country, and uncovering Helmsdale’s medieval history and former medieval castle.

The Google Street View Camera loan program enables pro photographers, travellers, and organisations such as tourism boards, non-profits, government agencies, universities or research groups, to share 360 imagery from places around the world via Google Maps.  The program allows people to access previously unseen or hard-to-reach locations across the globe online, from the comfort of their home. The Street View Camera Loan Program is also open to those wanting to promote areas of cultural and historical significance, as well as those wanting to photograph business interiors. For more information, please visit https://www.google.com/streetview/loan/.


Crater Walk #1 – Glen Calvie Circuit

by JohnKing 0 Comments

Today saw the first public walk along the Crater Route around the Lairg asteroid crater, a route which I mapped late last year and then walked carrying a Google Trekker earlier this year. Here is a short account of how the day went.

Our walk saw us following a route at the southern edge of the crater, one of the few parts of the walk which leaves Sutherland and strays into Easter Ross. This is an area that is quite different from much of the rest of the crater route, with large areas of native woodland amongst rolling hills, giving the area a feel more akin to the Grampians than the far north. This section passes close to the Alladale Estate which is looking at the possibilities of rewilding, and also begins near to the historic Croick Church, an important site in the area’s clearance era history, giving plenty to talk about on the way.

I met with my group for the day around 10am at the end of public road to Glencalvie and Alladale estates, a lovely spot nestled amongst the Caledonian pines. We were a team of eight, all enthusiastic for the walk, so after some introductions we set off up Glen Calvie. The weather was warm and sunny, the winds were light but the midges were staying away. This gave perfect conditions for the walk up this very scenic but little visited Highland glen. We were only passed by a group of 3 cyclist headed up the glen a walk up the Corbett, Carn Chuinneag all the way.

Glen Calvie

A view up the Water of Glen Calvie to Carn Chuinneag during a previous visit to the glen

We took a break at the head of the Glen with views across to the grand looking lodge at Diebidale. Our route then headed east a short distance before turning back north to take the track above Glen Calvie to complete our circuit. A lunch stop half way along our homeward track marked the only time the rain really threatened all day. The timing could have been better but actually it was quite refreshing given the warmth of the day. From here we looked across a shallow glen to the Graham, Carn Slachaidh, and open moors clearly managed for grouse shooting. Quite a contrasting landscape to the native woodlands earlier in the day!

As we rounded the corner before our final descent back to Glencalvie Lodge the views opened up more widely and we could see far out to the west with a stunning panorama beyond Alladale Lodge to the peaks of Suilven and Canisp. A last short descent took us down through pinewoods and back over the river, (almost with an adopted dog from one of the estate houses!) and back to the cars. We were back in a little over 4 hours, an enjoyable day had by all.

It was good to be out in the hills with a great group of people, to get the chance to share some of my crater route with others and to chat about the geology, cultural histories and nature of the land it goes through. I’m already looking forward to my next crater walk next month!

Team Glen Calvie

A happy team at the end of the day!


Torridon 31st July – 2nd August

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At the beginning of last week I spent a few days across in Torridon for 1:1 guiding on Beinn Alligin and Slioch. Here is a quick post about what we did.

Day 1 – Beinn Alligin

Rosalind and I met at the Torridon Inn early on Monday morning and then headed round the bay to the Coire Mhic Nobuil car park where we made a start on Beinn Alligin. The hills was clear and the conditions were looking promising after a fairly dreich morning but the wind was light so we did not linger on the lower slopes to avoid being eaten alive by the midges! We chatted and climbed steadily and before we knew it, we were on the summit of the day’s first Munro, Tom na Gruagaich. The views around the reminder of the horseshoe were tremendous and out west the Isle of Skye and Outer Hebrides were as clear as I’ve ever seen.

The descent from the first summit is steep so we took our time picking the best line down to the next bealach. We stopped at a minor top around 850m on the way round for a well earned lunch break before tackling the final steep climb past the impressive Eag Dubh onto the main summit and the day’s second Munro, Sgurr Mhor. From here we had a decision to make as to whether to continue round the ridge over the ‘Horns of Alligin’ or return by our uphill route. With the weather still looking fair and feeling good about our progress so far we decided to head on round.

Tom na Gruagaich, Beinn Alligin

Tom na Gruagaich, Beinn Alligin

It was a quick, steep descent down to the bealach below Na Rathanan, the first of the horns with great views over to the likes of Baosbheinn. From here on we passed a few groups going in both directions and it was definitely the busiest time on the hill. As we made our ascent up the to the first of the Horns a shower came through and we made a good decision to put on full waterproofs as the rain seemed to get stuck over Beinn Alligin for the next hour or so. The traverse of the horns involves some interesting scrambling steps but despite the damp conditions we made good progress over the first two before deciding to bypass the last.

Once the rain had stopped we made one final snack stop. The views as the rain cleared were very atmospheric and Beinn Dearg made several appearances before disappearing again into a sea of mist. As we commenced the steep descent down to the valley we soon came back out into the sunshine and picked up the path back to the car. This path is in really good condition and it allowed us an easy finish to the day while taking in the views of the beautiful sequence of waterfalls along the Abhainn Coire Mhic Nobuill. We were back in just over seven hours. A very successful day on the hill!

Day 2 – Slioch

We made an earlier start for a longer day on Slioch on Wednesday morning. We met at Kinlochewe, parked at Incheril and set off on the scenic walk-in along the Kinlochewe River. It was another perfectly calm morning and the midges were out in force so again we chatted and kept walking. When we got to Loch Maree the reflections on the water were immaculate but something to enjoy on the move. After crossing the bridge at the foot of Gleann Bianasdail we turned up toward the hill. We took a line quite close to the river to enjoy some of the spectacular falls in the river before branching off from the glen to pick up the main path heading more steeply uphill.

Abhainn an Fhasaigh, Gleann Bianasdail

Abhainn an Fhasaigh, Gleann Bianasdail

It was a warm morning and we soon made a stop for something to drink but again the midges drove us onward. Our route took us into the hidden corner of Coire na Sleaghaich from where we climbed up onto the south-east ridge of Slioch. We gained the ridge by a small lochan where we made another stop. It was a perfect spot with crystal clear water, views to distant peaks and there was not a sound to be heard. A couple of wild goats were grazing on the other side of the water.

A steep climb from here took us onto the flatter upper part of the hill where the views became very extensive and we passed a very large herd of goats (I counted around 40). It was only a short stroll over to the summit where we stopped for lunch with a view out over the Fisherfield wilderness. Here I found the only litter of the trip, the cork from a bottle of Prosecco. Evidence of a last Munro celebration maybe!?


The view from Slioch into the Fisherfield Wilderness

Eventually we dragged ourselves away from the summit and traversed the narrow ridge out to the subsidiary top of Sgurr an Tuill Bhain, which potentially offers an even better panorama than the summit itself. By this point it was clear that a change in the weather was on its way with cloud building from the south-west so despite the temptation to linger we descended the steep ground back down to the coire floor and headed back across to pick up our uphill route. By the time we were back down by Loch Maree a bit more of a breeze had picked up and the midges were not an issue on the way back.

It is a challenging walk out through high bracken back to Kinlochewe at the end of a long hill day but we made steady progress and got back to the car in perfect time just before the rain set in, ending a super couple of days in the Torridon area in great company!


Can’t Believe it’s January!

by JohnKing 0 Comments

Yesterday was a good day up Am Faochagach, a Munro in the Beinn Dearg group in Ross-shire. We took a route following a winding ridge from the Glascarnoch dam. This gave a nice high-level route with easy walking on heath type terrain, although it was a little boggy in places reaching the ridge.

It was sunny and clear in the morning with a nice inversion before some dense cloud swept in from the west, just in time for us to reach the summit!

View from Am Faochagach

Good views from Am Faochagach with a Morning Inversion

It never felt cold though and the snow cover is really sparse. Winter gear was left in the car and it felt more like spring. Mainly snow is only left on the flanks of ridges or up on north or north-east faces. A cold blast is due this week though, so fingers crossed for some winter!

Beinn Dearg Group

The Beinn Dearg Group from Am Faochagach – some snow surviving high on north and north-east facing slopes.


New Year in the North-West

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Walking into Kernsary

Walking into Kernsary from Poolewe

Last week I returned north to Scotland on the Sleeper with my partner and her mum. It was refreshing to be back in the Highlands after the hustle and bustle of central London! After shopping in Inverness we were headed for the west and after a brief lunch stop in Beauly, we made all haste for Gairloch.

It was great to be back in the north-western Highlands, but for our first few days we were storm-bound with sheets of rain, severe south west winds and unseasonably mild temperatures. The hills were almost completely cleared of snow. I did get out for some walks and runs but mountain-based activities, particularly of a wintery variety, were a no go. It was a shame to end 2016 this way after a year of many adventures!

Then, late on Hogmany, a cold front swept down from the north and early 2017 has so far seen a completely different kind of weather and a welcome drop in temperature. There was even a brief clearing that allowed us to bring in the bells on Big Sand beach, whisky in hand, under a sky full of stars with the milky way a clear bright streak across the sky.

New years day there was some nice sunshine amongst scattered hail showers. I went for a run over to North Erradale from Big Sand, which was really wet underfoot in places, then in the afternoon we drove over to Poolewe and took a walk in toward Kernsary. This was a lovely, calm walk by the River Ewe with great views of the snowy Fisherfield, Letterewe and Torridon Hills. We stopped by a river for coffee and shortbread then walked back just before it got dark. Very civilised!

I got up my first hill of 2017 in on the 2nd. I chose Beinn a’ Chearchaill as it was one of the few hills in the range between Flowerdale and Glen Torridon that I still hadn’t done. It is famed for its summit views of the Torridon hills, in particular the spectacular Coire Mhic Fhearchair on Beinn Eighe. There was none of that today though as I entered the cloud at around 500m. It was very wintery with fresh snow from about 300m and the wind chill on the top was significant. The conditions made for good navigation practice and, regardless of the lack of view, the summit area of this hill is really quite a surreal landscape. This would be a good hill to go back and do again on a clear day.

In the end it turned out to be a shorter walk than I expected so I also got a sunny walk along Gairloch beach on my way home. Then in the evening I managed another wee walk on Big Sand beach. I had this mile long expanse of sandy beach all to myself as I watched the final light of the day fade behind Longa Island. It is such a privelage to have places like this on the doorstep.

Gairloch Beach

A lovely afternoon for a walk on Gairloch Beach

On the 3rd we were storm bound once more and after a morning 5k, it was time to turn my attentions back to work.

Then, yesterday it was time to head back to the east coast. But not before a wee trip to Torridon! The weather was much improved with light winds, cold temperatures and the cloud above summit level. Not much snow around yet, but the views of the hills were great, particularly Liathach and Beinn Eighe. Both of these long ridges make excellent mountain days and Liathach offers one of the best ridge scrambles in the north west. Looking forward to getting back up there soon.

Liathach in early January

Liathach from Glen Torridon


What a week!

by JohnKing 0 Comments

This has been a busy week for me in the Scottish mountains. With cold, clear conditions holding on through midweek and then warmer, clear conditions at the weekend, all coinciding with the true end of my summer season’s work I was able to get out 5 of the last 7 days and continue my preparations for my winter ML assessment.

On Monday morning I left the house completely undecided as to my itinerary for the day. I really wanted to do a route up a grade I snow gully out west but I feared it would just be an epic battle through powder snow. Mid-journey I decided to redirect toward Ben Klibreck, a hill much closer at hand and which, although I had been up it several times before, I had never seen the view from. The weather forecast was promising full sunshine all day. Surely this time I would see a view from the summit!

What followed was still an epic battle through powder snow on the slopes of Cnoc Sgriodain and Carn an Fheidh, reaching a high point of 808m for the day and the view from Ben Klibreck eluding me once more.

It had been -8C coming out the back of Lairg and many of the passing places on the road were out of bounds to a car with summer tyres such as mine, but fortunately it was quiet and I made it to the bottom of the hills with great hopes of the bog being well frozen.  It was.  But it was also buried deep in the snows and my progress was painfully slow as a result. By the time I reached my high point for the day, it was late, I was physically shattered and a cap of cloud had spilled down from the north covering the summit of Klibreck with more foreboding clouds lurking in the background. I admitted defeat and descended back to the car. This wasn’t any easier a task than the way up, but the views out west to Ben More Assynt were fantastic and the snow-covered spiky outline of An Teallach on the distant skyline totally made up for the fact that I hadn’t completed my day’s objective.

As if to rub it in, I did get an outstanding view of Klibreck once I returned to the car. I feel snow shoes might be something worth investing in!

Ben Klibreck from the road

Ben Klibreck from the road

By Wednesday I was itching to get back out and this time successfully summit a hill. Looking close to home once more I decided to go for Beinn Leoid, a corbett in far north-western Sutherland, approached via 2 lower Grahams.

Circumstances meant I had a late start onto the hills. It was 1030am when I reached my start point.  It was in a narrow valley at the watershed between east and west on the Lairg-Laxford Bridge road and was hidden from the sun, about 100m above sea level and it was still -1.5 with snow on the ground and an icy sheen on the tarmac.

As I set off up-hill, following the route of a stalkers path zigzagging helpfully up the slope, the snow was rock solid and I had to think about whether crampons were required. But soon I burst out of the confines of the glen onto higher open ground in bright sunshine with more deep powder snow. From here I made straight for the summit of Graham number 1, Meall an Fheur Loch.

I reached the summit in about 1 & ½ hours and was greeted with a phenomenal view in all directions. Foinaven, Arkle and Ben Stack out west, Ben Loyal in the north, the full length of Loch Shin in the East and Ben More Assynt in the south. This truly was a winter wonderland!

Enjoying myself on Meall an Fhuar Loch

Enjoying myself on Meall an Fheur Loch

I could also see Beinn Leoid and it was apparent that in these snow conditions I didn’t stand a chance of reaching it on that day. So I settled for climbing the next Graham, Meallan a’ Chuail. This was an even better hill than the first, with a fine ridge leading to the summit. It was also another physically challenging climb, ploughing up deep snow covering a boulder field.

Again the summit view was outstanding and I hung around a while just savouring it.   You could even see Braeriach on the horizon. A golden eagle swooped past about 50m below me.  Perfect!

Beinn Leoid from Meallan a' Chuail

Beinn Leoid from Meallan a’ Chuail

The descent went smoothly enough, and I picked up the stalker’s path back to the road at a small cairn that I’m not sure how I found. The sunset was simply stunning and capped off probably one of my best winter days to date.

On Friday I was headed south. I had a weekend walk planned with my Dad on Saturday and was due to lead a walk with my old Glasgow hillwalking club on the Sunday. But with one last day of cold, clear conditions forecast I had to do a hill en route.

Due to their accessibilty from the A9 I decided to go for the East Drumochter hills. By the time I got down the road it was another late start and it was gone 11am when I was off the A9 and heading up the track. My plan had been to do both Carn na Caim and A’ Bhuidheanach Bheag. However, there was a front due and with my late start and long drive ahead I quickly realised that I should probably settle for one Munro. So Carn na Caim it was.

As I climbed away from the road the views over to the west side of the pass were stunning!

A View of the West Drumochter Hills

A View of the Western Drumochter Hills from the East

Up on the plateau, the conditions were perfect. Albeit I was still wading through deep powder snow with a tantalising crust that kept giving way beneath me. The sun felt warm. The cloud was rolling in from the north-west but above this the Alder hills looked stunning. And further west the Ben even made a brief appearance!

I followed the fence line as it wound over the undulating country. It wasn’t long before I reached the top to be greeted with a view of the main Cairngorm massif rising above a sea of cloud. I stayed a while just drinking in the views and the enjoying the tranquility. This was the first time all day that I had escaped the continual hum of traffic on the A9.

East Drumochter Plateau

Looking South over the East Drumochter plateau

As I decended I entered the cloud that had spilled over the plateau from the west and by the time I reached the car it felt like a completely different day. Mild and grey. Change was definitely on the way.

The next morning I awoke in the central belt under still under grey skies. I drove with my Dad up to Arrochar and we set off to do Cnoc Coinnich. This is a hill which until this year had been classed as a Graham, but after a re-survey it was found to be 762m high and just squeeks in as a Corbett. This change in classification seemed quite noticable on the hill as it was really very busy. There were atleast a couple of dozen people on the hill. Hardly the crowds you see on the likes of Ben Lomond, but much busier than I think the hill would have been if it was still a Graham. We probably were there for that reason ourselves!

But choosing this hill on that day was a good decision well made. As we left the mess of the commercial forestry by Ardgarten the skies started to clear. From the high point on the Cowal Way we follwed the NW ridge of the hill straight to the summit. There was a keen northerly wind keeping conditions cool, but there was a thaw in full swing and we hardly had to cross any snow to reach the summit. We found a lunch spot tucked away below the summit crags out of the wind and here it felt more like spring. Blue sky now dominated and in the clear air you could see as far as Ben More on Mull.

View from Cnoc Coinnich

Looking south from Cnoc Coinnich over Loch Long to the Clyde

On the way down we varied the route a little traversing behind the Brack and descending down into the forestry from the Ben Donich-Brack bealach. It was a bit random but it allowed us to stay high a little longer and enjoy more of the views and warm sunshine.

After another night in the central belt I was headed north once again. I met a group of 12 from the hillwalking club at the Victoria Bridge car park near Bridge of Orchy at 9am and we set off for Stob Gabhar.

The forecast was for a clearing day with dropping temperatures. This didn’t seem likely with dull, grey and mild conditions prevailing but we were hopefull! In any case it was nice to be back in the area. After being the hut custodian of the GUMC hut at Clashgour for several years I am very keen on this wild country heading in towards Glen Etive.

We entered the cloud around 800m with only patchy snow cover. My choice of ascent route was the Aonach Eagach ridge. This is bit more of a formidable sounding name than the reality of the ridge itself but it does narrow right down for a short section giving a nice interesting route to the summit.

By the time we were up here, around 1000m, the temperature had dropped noticeably and, as I had thought, the thawing snow of yesterday was now well consolidated and rock-solid. I felt vindicated that I had insisted that everyone carry crampons but there wasn’t the continuous covering to justify putting them on.

My group were all going well and everyone reached the top comfortably. As if to repay our efforts, the cloud cleared as we were eating our lunch giving spectacular views north and west, fog bows and broken spectres. I have no excuse for not getting any good pictures of this. I suppose it was just a combination of how damn cold it was and just wanting to enjoy the moment that kept my camera tucked away in the rucksack.

For a further variation we descended via Sron a’Ghearrain and Clashgour Farm. This made a nice descent route, although there were some very slippy bridges in the icy conditions! The views west to the Etive Munros were phenomenal.

Once we were down and been for a quick coffee in the Bridge of Orchy Hotel it was time to head home once more after a super week of walking in the Scottish Hills. Let’s hope the cold & snowy conditions return soon.






Winter Assynt – Climbing Cul Mor in the Snow

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With time against me but conditions looking good I decided it would be good to get out west to Assynt and take in the relatively accessible summit of Cul Mor in winter conditions before the thaw sets in at the weekend.  There was much more snow around than I expected, the snow line was around 300m on the way across and there was a slow thaw during the day. It was a beautiful morning, but more of a mixed bag in the afternoon.

I took in an anti-clockwise circuit of the summit and Creag nan Calman.  There was deep, soft snow on the upper part of the hill and tricky conditions in places crossing boulder fields obscured by snow.

It was a good ascent, with stunning views of Suilven, Canisp and the hills behind Inchnadamph. Part of the way I met another John from Ullapool.  It was good to have some company on the way up and I got some good practice higher up breaking trail.

Suilven from Cul Mor

Suilven from Cul Mor

After a nice summit/lunchtime chat we headed different ways and I had to navigate a little to find my way round to and then off Creag nan Calman.  There was a brief break in the cloud giving an atmospheric view of Cul Beag.


Cul Beag catching some nice light

Picking up the outward route just west of Meallan Diomhain I was lucky to catch some amazing late afternoon winter light, bringing out all the different shades of orange and brown wonderfully and casting long shadows across the land.  Unfortunately some drizzle set in about 1km from the car but it wasn’t enough to dampen a great day in Assynt.



Sgurr nan Ceannaichean and Moruisg

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Sgurr nan Ceannaichean and Moruisg
Moruisg from Sgurr nan Ceannaichean

The weather for Monday was looking like the best for a wee while and with the day free I decided it was time to get and out and enjoy some of the early season snows.

Strathcarron seemed like a good venue and I was keen to take in a route that was different from the standard route up this pair of hills, which is a little steep and boggy (to say the least!), so I set off from the car park at Craig shortly after 9. My plan was to traverse the former Munro, now Corbett Sgurr nan Ceannaichean and then onto Moruisg. It’s a fairly lengthy walk-in up a track from here but you gain height quickly and the view back to the Coulin Forest, in particular Fuar Tholl, just gets better and better.  Its not long before you feel like you are properly getting into the mountains.

Near the first wire bridge over the Allt a’ Chonais I opted to take an old path across the hillside to cut the corner of the track. This is quite boggy and indistinct in places and propbably not worth the bother. However, it does bring you right to the start of the path up Sgurr nan Ceannaichean which is quite handy. And what a path it is! It is a bit grown-over in places and also lost in some places due to subsidence, but this is a properly old skool stalker’s path zig-zagging up this steep hillside making for an enjoyable the climb. Maybe not everyone’s cup of tea, but I enjoyed it.

Just after starting up, a C130-Hercules came over the Bealach Bhearnais and flew by at eye level which was quite cool. I reached the first snow around 650m, then at 730m the path comes to an abrupt end. Its a steep climb from there up wide slopes to the summit of SnC. The view along the ridge to Moruisg was stunning.

Moruisg from Sgurr nan Ceannaichean

Moruisg from Sgurr nan Ceannaichean

I met about 8 people on this top, the only people I saw all day.

After lunch I wandered along to Moruisg in about 45 minutes.  It was a lovely walk along an easy ridge with great views north to Torridon and Fisherfield.  There was really only a dusting of snow on top but it was good to be on some snow for the first time this season.  It was really noticable how much more snow was in the north on the likes of the Fannaichs and Wyvis but it was quite localised.

View back to Sgurr nan Ceannaichean from Moruisg

View back to Sgurr nan Ceannaichean from Moruisg

After another summit break to take in the scene down the strath and out to the Cuillins which had appeared for the first time all day, I wandered down ESE to the 874m top ESE and then headed south to pick up another amazing old path, equally winding, for a knee friendly walk down to Glenuaig Lodge.

Maoile Lunndaidh from the decent to Glenuaig Lodge

Maoile Lunndaidh from the decent to Glenuaig Lodge

From Glenuaig it’s about 8km back to the car.  A long-way, but it’s a good track through some of my favourite hill country so I was quickly lost in my thoughts and didn’t notice the distance.

There were a lot of red deer knocking about the glen which were fun to watch, but a bit too far away to take a picture. I was back at the car just as it got dark and the temperature was already dropping quickly.  Hopefully it stays cold for some more snowy action later in the week.